From Kalka we continued East. As soon as we entered Punjab the landscape improved shomehow. There was less trash on the street, still far from optimal but definitely much better than before.

We continued North and entered Jammu. We spent the night in the back yard of a poor Urdu family, just North of the city of Jammu. They gave us milk from their own cow and we gave them chocolate and peanuts.

After that there was a steep climb, from ~750m to about 2500m MSL. The road was spectacular but also very dangerous due to rough driving and over congestion.